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The Mountain Jews Of Azerbaijan Adapt To Freedom
A EurasiaNet photo essay by Jason Eskenazi
In the highlands of northern Azerbaijan, a community of Jews
has quietly thrived in a mainly Islamic region. Legend has
it that the mountain Jews of Azerbaijan are descended from
one of the lost tribes of Israel, having fled the Holy Land
after the destruction of the first temple in 722 b.c. They
settled in the mountains of northern Azerbaijan roughly two
centuries ago, after being forced to flee from what was then
Persia. Today, the Jewish community is centered in the town
of Krasnaya Sloboda. The mountian Jews have survived centuries
of persecution, most recently at the hands of Soviet authorities.
Before the Bolsheviks siezed power, there were 13 synagogues
in Krasnaya Sloboda. All but one were closed, many of them
converted into workshops and warehouses, during the Stalin
era. The collapse of Communism has dramatically altered life
in the town. The removal of restrictions on freedom of movement
has prompted many residents to emigrate in search of economic
opportunities. The number of Jews in the town has dwindled
to 5,000 from about 35,000 during the late Soviet era. At
the same time, efforts have been undertaken to revive the
town’s religious traditions, including the renovation of the
town’s synagogues. Photographer Jason Eskenazi visited Krasnaya
Sloboda in 1999 to document life in the rapidly changing town.
A selection of his images from that trip, most of them never
before published, appear in this EurasiaNet photo essay.
Editor’s note: Jason Eskenazi’s photographs have appeared
in such publications as Time Magazine and The New York Times.
He first began photographing in the former Soviet Union in
1991. In 1996, he won an Alicia Patterson Fellowship for his
work in Russia. In 1999, he received a Guggenheim Fellowship
and was awarded the Dorothea Lange/Paul Taylor Prize for his
work on the Jewish community in Azerbaijan. He is now at work
on a book of photography covering the former Soviet Union,
tentatively titled "Wonderland."
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Posted March 30, 2001 © Eurasianet
http://www.eurasianet.org
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The Central Eurasia Project aims, through its website,
meetings, papers, and grants, to foster a more informed
debate about the social, politcal and economic developments
of the Caucasus and Central Asia. It is a program of the
Open Society Institute-New York. The Open Society Institute-New
York is a private operating and grantmaking foundation
that promotes the development of open societies around
the world by supporting educational, social, and legal
reform, and by encouraging alternative approaches to complex
and controversial issues.
The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily
represent the position of the Open Society Institute
and are the sole responsibility of the author or authors.
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