EurasiaNet Eurasia Insight - When Crossing Borders, Central Asian Customs Are Negotiable

EURASIA INSIGHT

WHEN CROSSING BORDERS, CENTRAL ASIAN CUSTOMS ARE NEGOTIABLE

David Mikosz 1/25/01

As many travelers will attest, getting to Central Asia from points in the West and vice versa can be an arduous experience. But perhaps the most aggravating aspect of a journey comes after landing at an airport in the region. Corruption is commonplace along the frontiers of Central Asian nations, and visitors are not immune from harassment and bribery attempts. The following is one Central Asian expatriate’s view on how to keep the frustration associated with traveling in the region to a minimum.

Visas must be arranged in advance for travel to Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. It is possible to receive visas upon landing in Kyrgyzstan and Turkmenistan, provided the visitor has a valid letter of invitation. Make sure that a border control officer stamps your visa upon arrival. If it is not stamped, you may be liable to a penalty when you leave.

You will also need to fill out a customs declaration form � usually two copies. Most countries require two copies � make sure and keep the second copy for when you leave. Also make sure that the customs official stamps the second copy too. Discovering that a declaration is not properly stamped is one of the favorite methods of customs officers to find a "fine."

It is probably safest to accurately declare the amount of foreign currency that you are bringing into country. Any money that is found on your person over what is stated on your customs declaration can be seized. Also declare jewelry, mobile telephones and computers. In particular, computers and phones are subject to export duties if not declared upon entry. It is probably best not to mention books or videocassettes � I have traveled many times with them and it is only when I specifically declare them that questions begin to be asked.

Usually if all travel documents are in order, the entry/exit experience goes more or less smoothly, taking into account that the rush to get to the front of the passport control line, or the check-in for a departing flight, can often resemble a rugby scrum. Sometimes, however, a traveler can encounter an avaricious customs officer. Corruption is an open secret in Central Asia, as underscored by the following joke currently making the rounds:

Two customs officials were debating what to get their boss, whose birthday was shortly approaching. The first one said: "How about a BMW?"
The second one responded, "No, we got him that two years ago, what about a dacha (cottage)?"
The first one answered, "No, we gave him that last year. How about if we call in sick for two days?"
There was a pause while both officials looked at each other. They then burst into laughter at the thought of giving such an extravagant gift.

Customs officials can certainly be greedy, anxious for a bribe and possibly threatening. When confronting such a customs official the most important thing is to hold your own ground and not to be intimidated. If you are harassed then there are several things to do:

Imply that you know somebody important or can get in touch with somebody important. I achieve remarkable results by pulling out my cell-phone and "calling" my embassy. Asking to make a telephone call to your embassy can also be effective.
Take careful notes, writing down names of people who are bothering you so that you can tell your story the Embassy/Ministry of Foreign Relations/or other organization. This can stop other scams too. In Almaty, several people report getting stopped by Kazakhs who flash their national identity cards and "discover" a $10 "fine" in gullible foreigners’ passports.
Ask for a receipt for any "penalty." Be especially insistent on this. In Kazakhstan, for example, you are now allowed to request that the duty chief attend any interrogations and he will sign any receipts.
Arrive with fancy letters and ID cards. Especially if you work for an organization with a local office, obtain a letter with a large stamp on it. Make sure to include lots of capital letters and names and phone numbers. It is especially useful if you can get a letter on government stationary. One international NGO with offices in Central Asia reports that it has crafted its own "accreditation cards" and that it greatly reduced the instances of official harassment.
Perhaps the most common target of Central Asian customs officials is non-Western employees of foreign organizations. Such people are usually perceived to be wealthy and easily-cowed targets. One example involves an incident at Kazakh customs: one Uzbek (an employee of a US NGO) was visiting Kazakhstan. When she was leaving, the customs officials said she did not declare her gold necklace and ear-rings. The official claimed the "penalty" was $50. The woman ended up avoiding paying a bribe by giving the jewelry to a friend who had accompanied her to the airport, and who lived in Kazakhstan.

Concerning Russian-speaking foreigners who travel to/from Central Asia, it is perhaps best not to speak Russian with customs officials. In many cases, a perceived language barrier will reduce the chances of a traveler being hounded for a bribe. If a customs officer nevertheless asks for a bribe, a traveler should at first play dumb, professing no knowledge of local customs or history. Should all else fail, remember that bribes are negotiable.

Editor�s Note: Dr. David Mikosz is the regional coordinator of the IREX Internet Access and Training Program and is based in Central Asia.

The Central Eurasia Project aims, through its website, meetings, papers, and grants, to foster a more informed debate about the social, political and economic developments of the Caucasus and Central Asia. It is a program of the Open Society Institute-New York. The Open Society Institute-New York is a private operating and grantmaking foundation that promotes the development of open societies around the world by supporting educational, social, and legal reform, and by encouraging alternative approaches to complex and controversial issues.

The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the position of the Open Society Institute and are the sole responsibility of the author or authors.