Georgia and Russia Reopen Border

The Dariali border crossing, perched 1,700 meters high in the Caucasus Mountains between Georgia and the Russian republic of North Ossetia, is the only direct land route left between Russia and Georgian-controlled territory. Russia closed the border in 2006 amid growing tensions with Western-leaning Tbilisi that spiraled into war two years later. [For details, see the Eurasia Insight archive.] http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/insight/articles/eav082108.shtml

What incentive prompted the decision to reopen the crossing, also known as Zemo (Upper) Larsi, remains unknown. The Georgian government and pro-government media have largely downplayed the re-opening, attributing Tbilisi's willingness to reestablish land communications with Russia to its desire to help neighbor Armenia, which depends on exports to Russia for much of its revenue. [For details, see the Eurasia Insight archive.] http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/insight/articles/eav091008b.shtml Armenian President Serzh Sargsyan met with Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili over the weekend in the Black Sea port city of Batumi for talks that reportedly included discussion of the border decision.

But despite Armenia's support for the decision, no travelers were on hand to mark the re-opening, which officially occurred at 7am. As the day wore on, not a single traveler attempted to cross into either country.

One Georgian border guard, standing against a dramatic backdrop of snow-capped mountains, scoffed at the decision to reopen the Dariali crossing. The checkpoint stands at the top of the Georgian Military Highway, an entrance route into Georgia for invading Russian armies in both the 19th and 20th centuries.

"So they [the Russians] dropped bombs, cut the country into pieces, kicked people out of their homes, and now they are saying 'Let's open the borders, let's trade, what's a little war between old friends?'" the guard bristled. "If you let them get away with it today, they will invade Tbilisi tomorrow."

In a February 27 statement, Deputy Foreign Minister Alexander Nalbandov claimed that "Georgia does not expect any special economic or political benefit" from the border's reopening.

Residents of hamlets scattered along the vertigo-inducing highway that snakes up to Dariali expressed greater optimism, however. Many locals say they are looking forward to crossing into North Ossetia for trade, or to visit relatives. From the crossing point, Vladikavkaz, the North Ossetian capital, is easier reach than Tbilisi, roughly a three-hour drive to the south, they say.

"We have good trade relations with the Ossetians," said Lamara Zautashvili, who runs a roadside grocery stand in the Georgian town of Stepantsminda. "They would come buy stuff here, and we would go to buy flour, milk and whatnot there. ? I sure hope it all comes back."

An hour south from Dariali, at the popular Georgian ski resort Gudauri, hoteliers voiced hope that a reopened border could induce Russian tourists to return. "[Y]ou can't shut the door in the face of your neighbor and be on the phone with a faraway friend all the time," one guesthouse owner, who gave her name as Marina, said in reference to Russia and the United States, respectively. Marina said some 40 North Ossetians - "all lovely people" - used to travel to her hotel for skiing before the border closed three and a half years ago. "Now I have none."

One diehard snowboarder, Moscow lawyer Natalia Kirilenko, has already opted to return to Gudauri, although not via Dariali. "I am not going to give up all of this just because [Russian Prime Minister Vladimir] Putin and Saakashvili hate each other," Kirilenko said.

Both Russian and Georgian citizens require visas before they can travel through Dariali into Georgia or Russia, said Giorgi Gegechkori, head of the Mtskheta-Tianeti District Police, the regional police force. The checkpoint, which will operate from 6am until 10pm daily, features an American-renovated facility that can handle 500 "light vehicles" per day, he added.

Differences of opinion already exist over how to handle any residents of breakaway Abkhazia and South Ossetia who wish to cross the border. Russian officials said on March 1 that such residents, most of whom carry Russian passports, can cross into Russia at Dariali without visas. Russia recognizes the two territories as independent states.

But Georgian Deputy Foreign Minister Nino Kalandadze told a news conference that Abkhaz and South Ossetians - whom Tbilisi considers citizens of Georgia -- will not be allowed through the checkpoint unless they hold Russian visas.

Such travelers, however, are likely to be few in number. Both Abkhazia and South Ossetia have border crossings with Russia that are outside Tbilisi's control.