The Jamba Erabia Madrasa on the outskirts of Islamabad cannot be seen form the main road. A gas station hides the small dirt road leading to the three-story building, which is undergoing repairs.
The front green metal gate, made in a typical Muslim fashion, leads to an area where there are carved white seats, and in front of each, a faucet to wash feet and hands. The main courtyard and mosque were built in 1979, with private money. The Madrasa gets all its money form private donors, which makes the funds difficult to trace. Saudi benefactors are believed to have poured in millions into Pakistan in order to keep it a strong Muslim nation.
About 30 boys are studying at the Jamba Erabia Madrasa. The two- to three-year program is organized around a rigorous schedule; the boys begin their day at 4 am and their studies end only late at night when they go to bed. Their time is organized around daily prayers and the memorization of the Koran.
The story of Abdul Manaam, a Pashtun from the remote northern frontier of Pakistan, is perhaps representative of how many of the students come to the Jamba Erabia Madrasa. Manaam’s parents sent him to the school in order to shield him from the turmoil that has swirled in North-West Frontier Province and the tribal areas. The eight-year-old does not speak Arabic, and knows very little about Pakistani culture and religion. Abdul’s experience, then, underscores the challenges facing Pakistani authorities as they strive to stabilize the tribal areas.
Jonathan Alpeyrie is a freelance photojournalist based in New York.
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